Microneedling for anti-ageing: what it really does under the skin
Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy, uses fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries that prompt your skin to repair and rebuild its own collagen. Over a course it can improve fine lines, texture, enlarged-looking pores, acne scarring and some pigmentation.
In short: it improves the quality of your own skin rather than changing your face, and professional treatment is not the same as DIY. The detail on the evidence, who it suits and clinic versus home is below.
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I provide professional microneedling at my Fulham clinic. Before every treatment I assess your skin, concerns and suitability, then select the needle depth and infusion to match.
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Why does our skin age in the first place?
To understand why I rate Microneedling so highly for skin ageing, it helps to understand what actually changes underneath the surface as we get older.
Young skin is supported by a dense, organised extracellular matrix. Collagen gives the skin tensile strength, elastin helps it spring back and fibroblasts continually maintain and repair this structural framework.
With intrinsic ageing and cumulative sun exposure, that system gradually becomes less efficient.
Collagen fibres become more fragmented and disorganised. Fibroblast activity changes. New collagen synthesis slows. UV exposure also increases enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases, or MMPs, which participate in the breakdown of collagen and other components of the extracellular matrix.
The result is not simply dry skin. It is a gradual structural change. The skin can become thinner, less resilient, less elastic, more crepey, rougher in texture, more visibly lined, less able to hold a smooth surface, and more likely to show enlarged pores and old scars.
This distinction is important because a moisturiser can hydrate the surface beautifully, but hydration alone cannot rebuild a significantly altered dermal framework.
For long-term skin-quality improvement, we need to think about what is happening deeper in the skin. That is where collagen-induction treatments become interesting.
Temporarily improves water content and plumpness. Excellent skincare has a genuine role in comfort and appearance.
Targets biological processes involved in collagen and extracellular-matrix repair. This is where collagen-induction treatments become interesting for ageing skin.
What exactly is Microneedling?
Microneedling is a minimally invasive treatment that uses very fine sterile needles to create thousands of controlled microscopic channels in the skin. It is sometimes called collagen induction therapy or percutaneous collagen induction.
The important word is controlled. The purpose is not to damage the skin indiscriminately. The treatment creates a carefully controlled injury that the body recognises and responds to through its normal wound-repair pathways.
Professional treatments allow the practitioner to adjust treatment parameters according to the area being treated, the skin and the concern.
This controlled repair response is what makes Microneedling very different from simply applying another serum to the surface of the skin. The treatment is asking the skin to do something. Repair. And that repair process involves some of the exact cells and structures we want to support when treating ageing or scarred skin.
Watch a Microneedling Treatment
What happens under the skin during Microneedling?
This is my favourite part of the treatment because once you understand the biology, it makes much more sense why Microneedling is used for so many different skin concerns.
What happens beneath the skin at different depths
Select a depth to see roughly which layer is affected. This is educational, not an at-home depth guide.
Approximate reach: the upper (papillary) dermis, where many fibroblasts sit. A professional might consider this depth for: Fine lines, general skin quality and early textural change. The fine needles create temporary microchannels; as the skin repairs them it lays down new collagen and elastin.
All depths at a glance
- 0.5 mm: reaches the epidermis and the very top of the dermis. Superficial goals such as overall skin freshness, mild texture and product-supported skin quality.
- 1.0 mm: reaches the upper (papillary) dermis, where many fibroblasts sit. Fine lines, general skin quality and early textural change.
- 1.5 mm: reaches deeper into the dermis. More established textural concerns or certain acne scarring, balanced against the individual and the area.
- 2.0 mm: reaches a deeper dermal setting. Specific concerns such as some acne scarring on thicker skin. Not appropriate for every area or person.
Topical versus professional application: applying a product to intact skin is not the same as applying a suitable professional formulation during microneedling. The stratum corneum limits passive topical penetration, and microneedling creates temporary pathways through that barrier. Even so, the needle depth and the depth a solution actually reaches are not the same, and a serum does not automatically travel as deeply as the needle. How far a professionally selected solution travels depends on molecular size, formulation, charge, stability, the vehicle and the condition of the skin barrier, not molecular size alone. Skin thickness varies across the face and body, deeper is not automatically better, and a 2.0 mm setting is not appropriate for every area or every person, so depth must be selected professionally.
Sources: Bos & Meinardi, the 500 Dalton rule for skin penetration (Exp Dermatol, 2000); Yousef et al., Anatomy, Skin (Integument), Epidermis (StatPearls); U.S. FDA, Microneedling Devices.
Collagen is the headline, but it is not the whole story
Microneedling is usually marketed as a collagen treatment, and collagen is incredibly important, but the repair response is broader than one protein. Research has described changes involving collagen synthesis, fibroblast activity, elastic fibres, extracellular-matrix organisation, growth-factor signalling, angiogenic signalling and epidermal remodelling.
Histological research has demonstrated increased newly synthesised collagen after repeated Microneedling treatments.
This is why I prefer to describe Microneedling as a skin-remodelling treatment rather than simply a glow facial. The glow is lovely. The biology underneath it is the interesting part.
Why is Microneedling so good for anti-ageing?
There are lots of excellent aesthetic treatments, but they do not all do the same job. Botulinum toxin reduces selected muscle movement. Dermal filler replaces or redistributes volume. HIFU targets deeper structural tissue. Skin boosters primarily improve hydration and skin quality.
Microneedling occupies a slightly different space. Its central mechanism is to trigger controlled repair and dermal remodelling in the skin itself.
This makes it one of my favourite treatments for clients who are not necessarily trying to change their face. They want their own skin to look healthier, smoother, firmer and more resilient.
Microneedling can be particularly relevant when someone says: my skin does not feel as thick as it used to. My pores look bigger. My makeup does not sit like it used to. I have fine lines but I do not necessarily want injectables. My skin looks dull and tired. I have had these acne scars for years. I just want my skin to age well.
A 2025 systematic review of 21 studies and 723 patients undergoing Microneedling for facial rejuvenation found that wrinkles were the most commonly evaluated outcome, followed by texture, photoageing and laxity. Ninety percent of the included studies used multiple Microneedling sessions and pooled patient satisfaction was 83%.
One of my favourite evidence-backed treatments for long-term skin quality, and one of the most logical treatments when collagen remodelling is the goal.
Tap your main concern to see why Microneedling may help.
The main benefits of Microneedling
Tap any benefit to read more. Each one reflects a slightly different way the same core mechanism, controlled repair and remodelling, can help ageing or damaged skin.
Microneedling for fine lines and wrinkles
Fine lines and wrinkles are partly associated with structural changes in the dermis, including changes in collagen organisation and quantity. That makes them a logical target for collagen-induction therapy.
Microneedling does not freeze facial expression and it does not replace lost facial volume. Instead, the aim is to improve the skin itself. Over a course of treatments, clients may notice that the skin looks smoother, more refined and more resilient as remodelling progresses.
This distinction matters. If a line is predominantly caused by strong muscle movement, botulinum toxin may be the more appropriate treatment. If the concern is loss of volume, filler may sometimes be more relevant. If the concern is the quality and texture of ageing skin itself, Microneedling becomes extremely interesting.
Microneedling for acne scars
Microneedling has one of its strongest established uses in the treatment of atrophic acne scarring. Acne can destroy or disrupt collagen in the dermis. Once the inflammation has resolved, the resulting loss of support can leave the skin indented. Microneedling stimulates a new repair response within that tissue.
However, not every acne scar behaves the same way.
Rolling scars
Broad, shallow undulations caused by collagen loss and sometimes deeper tethering. Often suitable for Microneedling. Tethered scars may also need subcision.
Boxcar scars
Wider depressions with relatively defined edges. Shallow boxcar scars may respond. Deeper scars may require combination treatment.
Ice-pick scars
Deep, narrow pits. Standard Microneedling is generally not the best standalone treatment. Scar-specific procedures such as TCA CROSS may be considered by appropriately qualified practitioners.
The American Academy of Dermatology states that a commonly used acne-scar protocol may involve around 3 to 5 Microneedling treatments every 2 to 4 weeks, with studies reporting approximately 50% to 70% improvement in acne scars.
Microneedling does not treat active inflammatory acne. Active infection or inflammatory acne should be assessed and treatment postponed where appropriate.
Microneedling for large-looking pores and uneven texture
You cannot permanently close a pore because pores are part of normal skin anatomy. What we can sometimes improve is how prominent they look.
As the quality and support of the surrounding skin improves, the surface can appear smoother and follicular openings may become less visually obvious. This is why clients often describe a more refined or polished skin texture after a course. Microneedling can reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.
Microneedling for pigmentation and melasma
Pigmentation is one of the areas where treatment needs to be more individualised. Microneedling has been investigated both alone and alongside selected topical agents for melasma and uneven pigmentation. Tranexamic acid is one of the most studied combinations.
Systematic reviews have found improvement in melasma severity with Microneedling plus tranexamic acid. More recent analyses suggest that the combination can outperform Microneedling alone, although it has not consistently proven superior to every established melasma treatment.
That is exactly why I do not describe it as a melasma cure. Melasma is a chronic, complex pigment disorder that often requires rigorous sun protection, trigger management, appropriate skincare, carefully selected in-clinic treatment and realistic expectations about recurrence. For the right client, tranexamic-acid Microneedling can form part of that plan.
Is Microneedling suitable for darker skin tones?
One advantage of standard Microneedling is that its mechanism is mechanical rather than dependent on creating significant thermal injury. This can make it an attractive resurfacing option across a wide range of skin tones. The American Academy of Dermatology describes Microneedling as suitable for people of different skin colours.
But suitable does not mean risk-free. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can still occur, particularly if the skin is treated too aggressively, there is significant inflammation, the client has recent sun exposure, aftercare is poor, the wrong products are used, or the individual is predisposed to pigment changes.
The correct message is not that Microneedling cannot cause pigmentation. It is that Microneedling can be an excellent option across skin tones when appropriate technique, preparation and aftercare are used.
Which Microneedling serum is best for your skin?
Microneedling itself is the foundation of the treatment. The additional formulation is selected according to the skin concern.
At my Fulham clinic I offer several Microneedling options because someone treating dehydration does not necessarily need the same treatment as someone treating pigmentation or advanced skin ageing.
Microneedling is the treatment. The serum is selected according to the skin concern.
No. Microneedling temporarily alters the skin barrier, which means product selection matters enormously.
An ordinary cosmetic serum that is formulated to sit on intact skin should not automatically be treated as suitable for use with professional Microneedling. Rare granulomatous inflammatory reactions have been reported following Microneedling where topical products were introduced through the channels.
The FDA also states that authorised Microneedling devices are not authorised specifically for delivery of cosmetics, topical drugs, vitamin solutions or blood products into the skin.
This does not mean combination protocols do not exist in clinical practice or research. It means the evidence and regulatory status of the Microneedling device and the additional product must not be confused. Only use professional products and protocols appropriate to the treatment.
Why I include complimentary Red Light Therapy after Microneedling
Every Microneedling treatment at my clinic includes complimentary medical-grade LED photobiomodulation afterwards.
I include this because Microneedling deliberately initiates a controlled repair response, and the period immediately afterwards is about supporting that recovery environment rather than unnecessarily stressing the skin.
My medical-grade LED system combines red and near-infrared wavelengths: 630 nm, 660 nm, 810 nm, 830 nm and 850 nm.
Red and near-infrared photobiomodulation is being studied extensively for its effects on cellular metabolism, inflammatory signalling and tissue-repair pathways. One proposed mechanism involves absorption of light within cellular mitochondria, affecting cellular energy production and signalling. Research into skin wound repair has also described effects on processes including cell proliferation, inflammatory regulation, angiogenic signalling and extracellular-matrix activity.
I therefore use LED immediately after Microneedling as a gentle, non-invasive part of my post-treatment protocol. Photobiomodulation has evidence for supporting biological pathways involved in inflammation and tissue repair, which is why I include it as part of my post-treatment protocol.
Medical-Grade LED Photobiomodulation
Included after Microneedling at no additional charge.
Standalone LED sessions are also available. You can read more on my medical-grade Red Light Therapy page.
How many Microneedling sessions do you need?
One Microneedling treatment can leave the skin looking fresher once the initial recovery has settled, but meaningful remodelling is generally approached as a course rather than a one-off event. Research into facial rejuvenation overwhelmingly uses multiple treatments rather than a single session.
For general skin rejuvenation, I usually think in terms of an initial course rather than promising that one appointment will completely change the skin. A sensible starting point for many clients is around 3 sessions. More significant concerns such as acne scarring may require additional treatments. For acne scars specifically, the American Academy of Dermatology describes protocols using approximately 3 to 5 sessions at intervals of 2 to 4 weeks.
Your exact treatment number and spacing should depend on the concern, treatment intensity, skin recovery, treatment area, other treatments being used and individual response. I prefer to assess the skin rather than sell everyone an identical package.
General rejuvenation
Often start with approximately 3 sessions.
Acne scarring
Often approximately 3 to 5 or more, depending on scar type and severity.
Pigmentation
Individualised as part of a broader pigment plan.
Maintenance
Individual rather than a mandatory fixed schedule.
When will I see Microneedling results?
This is why I tell clients not to judge Microneedling solely by the first week. The early glow is not the same thing as the final result. The biological reason for choosing Microneedling is the remodelling process, and that takes time.
The early glow is not the same thing as the final collagen-remodelling result.
The American Academy of Dermatology notes that some improvement may appear within weeks while full results can take several months as collagen production develops.
What Microneedling can and cannot do
I think this is one of the most important sections of this guide. The best treatment is not the one with the biggest marketing claim. It is the treatment whose mechanism actually matches the problem you are trying to correct.
The best treatment is the one whose mechanism matches the problem.
Who should not have Microneedling?
Microneedling is not suitable for everyone and treatment should always be subject to consultation. Treatment may need to be postponed or avoided in situations including:
Microneedling does not treat keloids. FDA guidance specifically identifies keloid scars and a history of keloids among circumstances where Microneedling may not be appropriate. This is exactly why consultation and correct client selection matter.
Professional Microneedling vs at-home dermarolling
A professional Microneedling treatment and a home dermaroller should not be treated as equivalent. One of my biggest concerns with home devices is not simply needle depth. It is the combination of repeated device use, uncertain sterility, incorrect technique and applying ordinary cosmetic products to freshly needled skin.
The FDA advises people considering medical Microneedling to choose a trained provider and emphasises the importance of single-use needle cartridges.
Microneedling vs HIFU: which do you need?
These are not competing treatments. Someone with beautiful skin quality but significant lower-face laxity may benefit much more from HIFU. Someone with relatively good facial structure but rough texture, pores, acne scarring and fine lines may get far more value from Microneedling. Some clients benefit from both, appropriately timed.
Microneedling improves skin quality. HIFU addresses deeper structural laxity.
Read more about HIFU treatment in London.
Microneedling vs laser: which is better?
Neither is universally better. They use different mechanisms. Standard Microneedling creates controlled mechanical micro-injury without intentionally using thermal energy. Laser treatments use light energy and, depending on the laser, can create thermal or ablative injury.
Laser can be extremely effective for certain pigmentation, scar and resurfacing concerns. Microneedling can be particularly attractive when a client wants gradual collagen remodelling, relatively manageable downtime, or when skin tone and pigment risk influence treatment choice.
For severe photodamage or particular scars, laser may sometimes be the better treatment. The correct question is not which treatment is strongest. It is which treatment is best suited to this skin and this concern.
If you want a related read, see my honest guide on GHK-Cu and Microneedling.
What happens during a Microneedling appointment at my Fulham clinic?
My clinic is based at South Park Studios, 88 Peterborough Road, Fulham, London SW6 3HH. I treat clients from across London from this one clinic location, with easy access from nearby Parsons Green and Wandsworth Town.
Why Microneedling has become one of my favourite skin treatments
“I like treatments where the science behind the result makes sense.”
“Microneedling is not trying to change the shape of your face. It is essentially asking your skin to repair and remodel itself.”
“That makes it particularly useful for clients who tell me they do not necessarily want filler or dramatic changes. They want healthier-looking skin. Better texture. Fewer visible lines. Better collagen quality. Less obvious scarring.”
“I also like that I can make the treatment much more specific to the client. Someone coming to me for dehydration does not necessarily need the same Microneedling protocol as someone coming for melasma or advanced skin ageing.”
“The biggest mistake in aesthetics is treating the treatment name as more important than the person sitting in front of you.”
“I will always start with the skin and the concern, then decide which treatment makes sense.”
Georgina Sookias
Level 7 qualified Aesthetic Practitioner
Microneedling treatment options at my Fulham clinic
Complimentary Red Light Therapy is included after Microneedling.
Fulham SW6 · South Park Studios, 88 Peterborough Road, London SW6 3HH
Frequently asked questions
What does Microneedling actually do to your skin?
Microneedling creates controlled microscopic injuries that trigger the skin’s natural repair response. This activates processes involving fibroblasts, collagen production and extracellular-matrix remodelling. Over time this can improve concerns including fine lines, texture, acne scarring and overall skin quality.
Is Microneedling good for anti-ageing?
Yes. Microneedling is an evidence-supported option for facial rejuvenation because its core mechanism stimulates controlled repair and dermal remodelling. It can be particularly useful for fine lines, uneven texture, early crepiness and skin that has lost some of its resilience. It does not replace treatments for significant volume loss or deeper structural sagging.
Does Microneedling actually build collagen?
Microneedling is also known as collagen induction therapy because controlled micro-injury activates wound-repair pathways involving fibroblasts and new extracellular-matrix production. Histological research has demonstrated increased newly synthesised collagen following repeated Microneedling treatments.
How many Microneedling sessions do I need?
This depends on your concern and your skin. For general rejuvenation, around three treatments can be a sensible starting point. More significant concerns such as acne scarring may require additional treatments. The American Academy of Dermatology describes acne-scar protocols of around three to five sessions performed two to four weeks apart.
How long does it take to see Microneedling results?
Early improvements can appear within a few weeks, but collagen remodelling is gradual. Full results may continue developing for several months after treatment, particularly when completing a course.
Is Microneedling good for acne scars?
Microneedling can be particularly useful for atrophic acne scars, including many rolling and shallow boxcar scars. Deep tethered scars may also need subcision, while deep ice-pick scars often require a different scar-specific treatment. Active inflammatory acne should be assessed before Microneedling.
Does Microneedling help enlarged pores?
Microneedling cannot permanently close pores, but improving overall skin texture and dermal support can reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and create a smoother-looking surface.
Does Microneedling help pigmentation and melasma?
Microneedling has been studied for pigmentation and melasma, particularly alongside agents such as tranexamic acid. Results can be useful for appropriately selected clients, but melasma is a chronic condition and usually requires a broader plan including rigorous sun protection and appropriate home care.
Which Microneedling serum is best?
There is no single best formulation for everyone. At my Fulham clinic I offer Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, Peptides and Exosomes. The best choice depends on whether your main concern is hydration, pigmentation, ageing, texture or broader regenerative skin support.
Is Microneedling with Exosomes better?
Exosome-assisted Microneedling is a promising area of regenerative aesthetics. A randomised split-face study reported greater improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, hydration and pigmentation on the exosome-treated side, but the wider evidence is still developing and long-term data remain more limited than the evidence for Microneedling itself. I therefore describe Exosomes as promising rather than a guaranteed superior treatment.
Is Microneedling suitable for darker skin?
Microneedling can be used across a wide range of skin tones because standard Microneedling does not rely on significant thermal injury. However, post-inflammatory pigmentation is still possible, so correct technique, skin preparation, sun protection and aftercare remain important.
Why do you use Red Light Therapy after Microneedling?
I include complimentary medical-grade Red Light Therapy after Microneedling because photobiomodulation has evidence for supporting biological pathways involved in inflammation, cellular activity and tissue repair. My system combines 630 nm and 660 nm red light with 810 nm, 830 nm and 850 nm near-infrared light. I use it as a gentle, non-invasive part of my post-treatment protocol.
Can I wear makeup after Microneedling?
Your skin barrier is temporarily altered after treatment, so I provide personalised aftercare on when to restart makeup and skincare. Avoid introducing unnecessary products to freshly treated skin until advised.
Can I use my normal serum with a dermaroller?
Ordinary skincare products should not automatically be treated as suitable for delivery through freshly created skin channels. Product formulation, hygiene and technique matter. Professional Microneedling uses controlled treatment protocols rather than simply needling everyday skincare into the skin.
Where can I have Microneedling in London?
I offer professional Microneedling at South Park Studios, 88 Peterborough Road, Fulham, London SW6 3HH. Treatment options include Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, Peptides and Exosomes, with complimentary Red Light Therapy included after treatment.
Glossary
Clinical evidence and further reading
- FDA. Microneedling Devices.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Microneedling can fade scars, uneven skin tone, and more.
- Foppiani JA et al. Microneedling for Facial Rejuvenation: A Systematic Review. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. 2025. PMID: 40542236.
- Microneedling histological / collagen research. PMID: 26096653.
- Feng X et al. The efficacy and safety of microneedling with topical tranexamic acid for melasma treatment: a systematic review and meta-analysis. PMID: 37584240.
- Combining Microneedling and Tranexamic Acid for Melasma: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. PMID: 40555739.
- Liu C et al. A Double-Blinded, Split-Face Clinical Trial Evaluating the Effects of a Vitamin C, E, and Ferulic Acid Serum Combined with Microneedling on Facial Photoaging. 2026. PMID: 41710525.
- Efficacy of combined treatment with human adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosome-containing solution and microneedling for facial skin aging. PMID: 37377400.
- Granulomatous reaction after Microneedling with topical products. PMID: 24258303.
- Photobiomodulation wound-healing review. PMID: 27943458.
- Modulation of gene expression in skin wound healing by photobiomodulation therapy: systematic review. PMID: 39031566.
- Photobiomodulation and Biological Pathways in Skin Regeneration and Rejuvenation. 2026. PMID: 42392660.
- Bos JD, Meinardi MMHM. The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs. Experimental Dermatology. 2000. PMID: 10971330.
- Yousef H, Alhajj M, Sharma S. Anatomy, Skin (Integument), Epidermis. StatPearls.
- Alkilani AZ, McCrudden MTC, Donnelly RF. Transdermal Drug Delivery: Innovative Pharmaceutical Developments Based on Disruption of the Barrier Properties of the Stratum Corneum. Pharmaceutics. 2015. PMID: 26506371.
Ready to start Microneedling?
If your goal is healthier-looking skin rather than changing the shape of your face, Microneedling is one of my favourite treatments to consider. The first step is deciding what your skin actually needs.
At my Fulham clinic I offer Microneedling with Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, Peptides and Exosomes, so the treatment can be selected around your concern rather than offering everybody exactly the same protocol. Every Microneedling treatment also includes complimentary medical-grade Red Light Therapy afterwards as part of my post-treatment protocol.
My clinic is at South Park Studios, 88 Peterborough Road, Fulham, London SW6 3HH.
Serving clients across Fulham, Parsons Green, Wandsworth Town and South West London.
This article is for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified practitioner before starting any aesthetic treatment.